So, I got a reply both on the RepRap forum and direct from Orballo, Yes, the plastic tube goes inside the extruder body above and flush with the hot end. The hot end is then secured in place being pinched by two M3 bolts. This tube then guides the 1.75mm filament from the hobbed bolt down to the hotend.
I installed the end stops. the clips provided aren't great, for the X and Z axis they work, but not great
For the Y axis they just didn't work so I ended up supergluing the endstop to the side of the clip, then supergluing that clip to the bottom of the Y carriage where it would strike the rear frame.
I wired up the frame. The initial wiring was really messy, until I saw this video (https://youtu.be/7l1rb2gWsZM) that totally worked for all of my cable bundles to keep them together. I also added a little spiral wrap. I tried to route the wires as neat as possible, with cable ties where needed, but sadly it looks messier than it should...
I initially wired up the arduino on the bench to check everything worked, which it did. But I think the combination of being there, the tangle of wires and my massive labels on cables stopped any airflow, and the drivers got very hot. I moved the arduino and mounted it to the frame, filing a bolt on two edges for the top left hole and re-wired. much neater
I extended the cable for the fan, and following lots of advice on the net, connected it to the connector just behind the power connector. This worked and the fan was nice and loud, for maybe thirty minutes, until it was very quiet, and smelt of burnt. !
It turns out the fan provided was 5V and the connector supplies 12V. Oops. need to get a new fan, and make sure its 12V !
I Setup Marlin on the arduino. I pulled the latest RC from git and configured everything (LCD, endstops, heat etc). I've put my current config on my github https://github.com/paulhurleyuk/Marlin.
I Setup Pronterface and Slic3r (and Skeinforge if I want to try that) and connected succesfully. Again, my Slic3r profile is on hithub here https://github.com/paulhurleyuk/Slic3r. Homed all the axis and heated things up, all working apart from the fan.
I've started assembling the P3Steel 3d Printer I've bought, here's where I'm up to as of Dec 20th;
Assembling the frame went easily, the frame seems straight, the paint hasn't chipped and there's not too many sharp edges or flash. I haven't used washers for most of the captive fastenings.
Assembling the Y axis motor and idler went ok. The kit includes four printed spacers, that could either all be for the motor, or could all be to mount the RAMPS later, or half and half. In the end I mounted the motor to one plate, then mounted the gear, then attached the other plate and two spacers. This eems to work, although the belt squeezes against it at the motor end. I also didn't follow the reprap wiki suggestion to 'tap' the y axis smooth rods in from one end completely, instead removing one end, placing the y axis rods, then re-attaching the end plate. I think this is less likely to scratch the rods and everything still seems square.
Assembling the X axis took longer than expected, the kit includes a different X idler than the wiki or most videos show that includes a built in tensioner. it took me a while to work out what hardware to use and in what order
Eventually I also found the BQ Prusa instructions which do resemble the X Axis.
I attached the X axis to the Z axis which went well. I ended up attaching the Z motors three times (connectors should face the frame, and cables need to be connected before mounting the motor)
I assembled the Extruder, which went ok. The hobbed bolt has threads on either end so I could turn the nuts on each end to align the hobbing with the filament hole.
I also assembled the hot end. It seems to be an E3D 'style' v5 or v6. The thermistor is held in with a screw, and I added a m3 washer to hold it better. I'll need to extend the wires for the hot end fan.
The hot end attaches to the extruder with two m3 bolts to 'pinch' it in place, however the kit also includes a short length of plastic tube (polypropylene, deffo not PTFE) with a bevel on one end. The tube is too long to fit in the extruder, and the hot end doesn't have a large enough bore to hold it, so I suspect the tube goes inside the extruder but needs trimming, but I'm not sure. (answers on a postcard)
So thats where I'm up to. Next steps are
- Fix the extruder to the X carriage
- Route cables
- Install electornics
- Install endstops
- configure the RAMPS
The kit from Orballo didn't come with specific instructions, so I've been assembling using a mix of the following pieces of info;
- PDF Instructions from David Deza Renovales of RepParts3D.com ( http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Montaje_PSteel.pdf)
- KitPrinter 3D Assembly instructions (http://www.kitprinter3d.com/es/blog/manual-p3steel-c10)
- Tony Ivars YouTube assembly Videos ( https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7PnAADjTT2pUMG6zXklxPQN_Gn9mA6t4)
- Diego Castillo YouTube assembly Videos (https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLoXkE-dGCJLO36lh3SRtudK3pDIE0vzQ9)
- Createc 3D YouTube Assembly Videos (https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVyjXoeN_fQVWppKtsh5Mo4fbRyqnPV_K)
- HTA 3D YouTube videos (https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLoCcs8IV1Y2t-5n6MYJj1a9XD-mj2rvEI)
- TM Bomber's YouTube video of cable management (https://youtu.be/7l1rb2gWsZM)
- The RepRap wiki (http://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel, http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide, http://reprap.org/wiki/Marlin)